Around the World In Seven Days, Part II: Another Week in Astoria

Here is a sequel to Part I, with seven more countries to visit! (Where to go next? Egypt? Ecuador?)

1. Brazil (also see Malagueta): Brasilianville Café & Grill. This $4.99/lb. buffet will delight both the carnivore and the vegetarian. Spoon some buttered rice onto your plate, and start loading up on black beans, corn pudding, grilled fish, fried mandioca, acaraje, beef and carrot stew, battered chicken skewers, beet salad, and garlicky collards (the menu changes daily). If you crave more meat, go talk to the friendly guy at the grill... he'll fill up your plate with sirloin churrasco. Don't forget the exotic fruit shakes - I like the cacao pulp with milk and sugar. (Brasilianville Café & Grill: 43-12 34th Ave., 718-472-0090.)

2. Czech Republic: Koliba. If you dine here, I suggest fasting all morning and afternoon. Monstrous portions of pork or chicken schnitzel will challenge (and satisfy) the heartiest eater. Make sure to order the homemade tartar sauce on the side, and get the home fries with onion. Take some apple strudel home with you - you won't have any more room until tomorrow. (Koliba Restaurant: 31-11 23rd Ave., 718-626-0430. My grandma would have loved this place.)

3. France (Brittany, to be more specific): Cafe Triskell. At this tiny cafe, toothsome buckwheat crepes are served with a variety of fillings - I like the crumbly goat cheese, which arrives with a refreshing green salad on top of the big square crepe. Sweet crepes include apricot jam with almonds, and banana with buckwheat honey. Please be advised that this cafe is closed on Mondays and Tuesdays - I found out the hard way. (Cafe Triskell: 33-04 36th Ave., 718-472-0612.)

4. India: Seva. This restaurant is a local favorite. I found the paratha rather dry, but there was plenty of cheese in the palak paneer, and the spiced butternut squash soup was a winner. There are many vegan options, including a soy mirch masala. (Seva: 30-07 34th St., 718-626-4440.)

5. Mexico: (also see Tacos Mexico) Las Margaritas. This year, none of the food at the Broadway street fair appealed to my companion and me, so we ended up here. We ordered a couple of health-conscious specials...skirt steak on a spinach salad, and spicy shrimp tacos on soft, warmed corn tortillas (no beans and rice). Heartier dishes include fajitas, enchiladas and tacos al carbon. (Las Margaritas: 38-01 Broadway, 718-777-1707.)

6. United States (Southwest/Tex-Mex): Mojave. The beautiful backyard garden is the scene for
the consumption of countless fruit-infused margaritas. Service can be lackadaisical for lunch, but there's a reasonable two-course prix-fixe - I've enjoyed the salmon sandwich with chipotle aioli. I keep meaning to try the Mexican chocolate fondue. (Mojave: 22-36 31st St., 718-545-4100.)

7. Venezuela: Arepas Cafe. The best arepas in NYC are found here (sorry, Caracas Arepas). Slightly crispy on the outside, moist and dense within, the cornmeal pockets are large enough to hold a lot of goodies without overflowing. Fillings range from the exotic (truffle butter tuna with pico de gallo) to the traditional (shredded beef). $3 beers are served at happy hour - for a non-alcoholic alternative, try the phenomenal cafe de leche. (Arepas Cafe: 33-07 36th Ave., 718-937-3835.)

Tacos Mexico

This week, New York Magazine includes a list of the best foods under $10. Although the list neglects Queens, if you're willing to take the N train a few stops past Lexington & 59th St. into Astoria, you'll find one of the very best (and most delicious) deals in town: the awesome chiles rellenos at Tacos Mexico. Try to finish them, I dare you! Two mild green peppers are lightly battered, stuffed with melted queso blanco, smothered in a hearty tomato sauce, and served with a three-day supply of refried pinto beans, Spanish rice, and five or six warm tortillas. Price? $10.95.

And if you want something other than a stuffed pepper, you can order: nachos, tamales, quesadillas, flautas, chalupas, tostadas, tacos, tortas, cemitas, sopes, huaraches, burritos, enchiladas, chilaquiles, and giant plates of chicken, beef or pork fajitas. Wash everything down with a glass of horchata, and don't forget to take your to-go bag home with you. Happy New Year!

Tacos Mexico: 32-08 38th St., Astoria, (718) 545-5888.

Barrio Chino

I was craving one of the chewy German pretzels at Cafe Katja, but the place was closed for a private party (I really should've called ahead). "Where should we go?" I asked my disappointed friend.

We wandered around a bit, and ended up around the corner at Barrio Chino, a jam-packed Mexican joint. The name of the restaurant means "Chinese Neighborhood" - it's located at the edge of Chinatown. (Interestingly, in Spain, the term barrio chino can mean something completely different.) The guacamole was promising; fresh and spicy with lots of chopped onion, it came with thick hot corn chips.

My friend was spot on with her choice of main course, but I miscalculated. I ordered the guajilla-marinated red snapper, which was strangely cinnamony and desperately needed some kind of sauce. The accompanying small pile of green rice was dry. But my friend's two tostadas were excellent; the corn tortillas were layered with plenty of queso fresco, sour cream, lettuce, avocado, tasty marinated shrimp and tender shredded beef.

Feeling vaguely unsatisfied (and envious of my friend), I recommended that we order dessert. Three hot sugared churros with a pot of hot melted chocolate is definitely reason enough for me to return to Barrio Chino... but next time I'll order the tostadas.

Barrio Chino: 253 Broome St., (212) 228-6710.

Pio Maya (CLOSED as of 7/08)

I did something I'm not proud of tonight. I may have offended everyone around me. What did I do?

I... ate on the subway. (A while ago, the MTA was considering fines for this, but apparently, it's still legal. Still, some people equate such an action with eating in a public restroom.)

But I simply could not help myself. After picking up a to-go order at Pio Maya, I'd tightly closed the bag. But as I waited for an F train, my hand crept into the containers of thick, unsalted warm tortilla chips and the super-fresh, chunky green guacamole. The train arrived, I looked around for a two-seater in an unoccupied part of the car and hurriedly sat down. (The woman behind me glared at me; she'd obviously coveted the same seat. I don't know why, as she wasn't going to eat anything. However, she did stretch out her legs and put her feet on the seat in front of her.)

Casting a furtive glance around me, I took out the shrimp taco. Lots of grilled shrimp and spicy pico de gallo were nestled inside doubled corn tortillas, a nice touch. Still, the whole thing was a mess; lettuce and tomato and shrimp spilled out. I hoped no one was watching. It didn't take me very long to polish everything off.

The next time I go to Pio Maya, I intend to eat in. The place has been renovated; the prep kitchen is now hidden, and black leather banquettes have been installed. So, just in case you were on my F train tonight, what can I say - I'm sorry, it won't happen again.

Pio Maya: 40 West 8th St., (212) 254-2277.

La Palapa Rockola

Walking through the West Village on a cold, windy day, I craved some hearty fare. My plan was to head down to No. 26 for a big sandwich on ciabatta, but I happened to notice La Palapa Rockola on the way. It had somehow slipped my mind that the popular East Village Mexican had opened a 6th Avenue outpost.

My stomach growled. The restaurant manager saw me peering intensely into the restaurant window and opened the door. "Why don't you come inside, it's cold out there." That bit of hospitality (and the promise of rice and beans) was enough to change my plans. Happily, I sat down to a cup of Moka D'Oro and looked over the menu.

The specials included an enticing roasted corn soup. On the regular menu were tortas (Mexican sandwiches), assorted quesadillas and tacos stuffed with such goodies as chile-rubbed pork and char-grilled marinated skirt steak, large entrees like enchiladas and shrimp in garlic sauce, and even a 3-course meal that ended with one's choice of Mexican chocolate pudding or flan.

I had a feeling that I'd be eating quite a lot, so I decided not to fill up on the hand-cut tortilla chips. I started with the soup, which was a delicious, creamy puree of sweet roasted corn with a mound of huitlacoche (corn mushrooms) and tangy sour cream floating on top. The hearty soup was almost a meal in itself.

Never one to stop at soup, however, I also ordered a poblano chile quesadilla and a side of beans and rice. Although La Palapa Rockola serves its quesadillas in flour tortillas, my request for a corn tortilla was cheerfully accommodated. The slightly crisp tortilla, cut in quarters, was chock-full of melted cheese and spicy peppers. I dipped it in salsa verde and pico de gallo. The refried black beans were sprinkled with melted queso anejo, and the tomato rice was fragrant with saffron. I was certainly glad I'd stopped in!

La Palapa Rockola: 359 6th Ave., (212) 243-6870.

Agua de Sandia

On a hot August day, what could be more refreshing than a tall, cool glass of agua de sandia? This traditional Mexican watermelon juice drink is featured at the Downtown Bakery, and I guarantee that it's as effective as a personal air conditioner (at least while it lasts).

Downtown Bakery/Mexican Food: 69 1st Ave., (212) 254-1757.